Kauai by Foot, Float & Flight

May 8, 2013 in USA | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

We’ve come a long way since we visited Oahu and Maui fifteen years ago. Back then, I didn’t own a proper pair of hiking shoes, and my thirst for adventure was limited to what I could access by wheels (car or bike). I must admit that we are still not as hard core as the backpackers who take on the Kalalau trail along the Na Pali coast. But we have expanded our boundaries significantly to experience differing landscapes accessible only via more adventurous means of transportation.


Foot
We have become avid hikers over the years which allowed us the experience and endurance to take on some of the more challenging hikes that yielded breathtaking rewards.
Awa’Awapuhi-Nuolola Loop – I think most people tackle this one in the reverse, and had we started it in this direction, we may have been too intimidated to complete the entire loop. The reward was one of three perspectives we had of the Na Pali coast from a rugged fin of Kauai’s west side mountains.
Hanakapi’ai Falls – A great intro to the Kalalau trail takes you to a beach two miles in from the trailhead. Another two miles off of a side trail leads to the Hanakapi’ai Falls, where you can cool off and reward your efforts. This is as far as you can go on the Kalalau Trail without obtaining a permit.
Pihea Trail – Located in north Koke’e State Park, you can easily stroll above a series of vista points over the valleys hovering above Na Pali. This trail provides access to the Alakai Swamp Trail and the Mount Wai’ale’ale vista point.
Alakai Swamp Trail – A series of boardwalks lead you through a lush swamp – the world’s highest at over 4000 feet.
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Float

Some of the island’s most spectacular sites are only available via boat, including the Na Pali coast and sites along the Wailua River.

Secret Falls – only accessible via the Wailua River, we took a guided kayak tour through a local outfitter.
Fern Grotto – intrigued by the pictures, I had to see this myself, so we returned to rent a canoe from the Kamokila center and planned our visit to avoid the crowds of more populous boat tours.
Na Pali caves – accessible only by raft or kayak, Waiahuakuo Cave is one of many that we were able to explore on a guided tour. The waterfall spilling into the ocean originates from Hanakoa Falls, which can also be accessed via foot on the Kululau trail for those who have a permit.
Nuololo Kai – this ancient fishing village can only be accessed through certain outfitters to see how people once lived on a now abandoned coast. Additional perspective of the surrounding valley can be seen from above on the Nuolola trail.
Tunnels Beach – while this is not technically a float requiring a boat, this is one of the better snorkeling spots on the island.

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Flight
Some people might skip a heli-tour, but despite the expense, it really does complete the perspective of the amazing landscape.

Ha-upa Ridge – from the movie “The Descendants”.
Manawaiopuna Falls – aka Jurassic Falls, this waterfall sits on private property and can only be accessed via specific tour operators.
Tunnels Beach – a view above where we met our friend the sea turtle days before.

And of course, more amazing views of Waimea Canyon and Na Pali coast.

Telluride Film Fest on the Cheap

September 7, 2012 in USA | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

I am in no way claiming to be an expert about how to successfully navigate the Telluride Film Festival without a pass. When I attended this event for the first time this Labor Day weekend, I cobbled together bits and pieces of advice, not necessarily really believing things could require so much patience. I like to maximize every moment of my precious vacation, after all. By no means am I a cinephile, and the idea of standing in line for a minimum of an hour for the hopes that I can buy a ticket are beyond my scope of comprehension. But the event also ignites my competitive side. Can I be one of the first in line while still finding the time to hike the dog so he will sleep quietly for the rest of the day? Will my choices be clever and off-the-beaten path or the most popular where competition is fierce? The opportunity to say that I was amongst an elite few who saw a movie for the first time in the United States is definitely appealing.

Every year over Labor Day weekend, Telluride is guarantee stars, a possible monsoon and if you’re really lucky, a blue moon. Here is my account of how I navigated this alluring and unpretentious festival without breaking the bank or losing my mind.

Lodging
The most economical choice is to camp just outside of town. The beautiful thing about the camping area is that the proximity allows you to give your car a rest during your stay. However, since our dog believes he commands the celebrity status that rivals anyone who would show up in town for the event, sleeping in a tent is out of the question. Instead, we opted for a reasonably priced, dog friendly condo in town, which we found on www.vrbo.com. Not only do we have a spot for our prissy pup to safely rest while we are out and about, but we have proper amenities to quickly prepare some meals to grab between rushing to events.

Open Air Cinema
There are a several free movies featured throughout the fest, with one of the most ambient being the open air cinema, which occurs each evening of the event. The host at our condo rental said that we could set out our blankets and chairs as early as 10:00 am, to which we discounted… until Friday afternoon around 2:00 pm when we strolled by Elk Park to find the grass almost completely covered in tarps. Coming from bigger cities, we could not even imagine laying out our personal belongings, leaving them behind and expect them to be intact more than six hours later. I had an emergency tarp in my backpack that was intended for hiking disasters, but this sure seemed like a worthy emergency to me. My husband set off to retrieve the tarp while I guarded a spot, as everything around me continued to be claimed. We claimed our spot and doing something that would be completely unheard of in our larger hometowns, left our tarp and bleacher seats in the park as we resolved to enjoy the rest of our afternoon. This was Telluride after all, and there is an air of small town trust that we seemed to have forgotten about.

In the three evenings where we repeated this ritual, we experienced a perfect sky filled with a blue moon, a monsoon that required we crack out more emergency hiking gear (bivvies) in order to get through the movie, and the remnants of an afternoon shower that lingered on our tarp until the closing credits.

Q’s
There are several free films that are inside theaters as well, with the most popular being the Backlot at the library. With one movie on our list, we had one chance to get this right. We failed. We didn’t quite understand the method of queuing for free movies. Once the movie prior to the desired film “loads”, they begin passing out “Q cards” that indicate your position in line. Once you have the Q card, you are free to leave and come back at the time they begin to seat the desired film. Your spot is secured based on the number on your Q card. We didn’t quite get this concept, and instead attempted to arrive 45 minutes prior to the show start. There were no more Q cards. We decided to chance it. We waited until they told us the theater was full, and in this case, even those with Q cards were turned away due to the number of patrons attending the show. Wonderful, our taste in “mainstream” movies became our demise.

For paid movies, there are no Q cards, so the strategy is to arrive as close to the front of the paid line as possible. In most cases, this means arriving at least an hour before the show starts. It also helps to choose a theater that has more seats (in the 500+ range). The movie I really wanted to see in the 140 seat theater filled to the point where passholders were turned away (so my “victory” of being third in line meant nothing). Even an early morning show in a 500 seat theater was a failure because I thought that no one would possible get up that early to stand in line. Again, I was wrong.

Stay up Late
There is an affordable pass option for the last show of the day each night at two of the theaters. This year it was $60, which granted you access to the late shows every night, which usually began around 11:00 pm.  We debated this, but decided that with our other goal of tiring out the dog every morning, a 1:00 am return three nights in a row sounded exhausting.  However, these shows also proved to be a good bet for buying single tickets. For us, who were trying to maximize our efforts, the one night we decided to pursue a late show meant plowing over meandering guests after the open air cinema movie, which finished 30 minutes prior to the start of the late film. On our one attempt, we were successful purchased a ticket, sat in a prime seat and adjusted our eyes to read the subtitles guiding us through our selected French film.

Think Big – Stay Long
The best bet to see a film is to target the larger theaters and to wait until later in the event – Sunday or Monday.  I had discounted the TBAs initially (the Monday agenda is filled with TBAs), and consequently planned to leave Telluride mid-day Monday, primarily because the program seemed so undefined. However, most of Monday is reserved for the films that were most popular and from which the regular passholders were turned away.  If I were to balance the trip more effectively in the future, it would be to come in on Friday and stay through Monday night, as they show films all day long, while many guests (like me) are on their way home. Also, although I carefully reviewed the program upon the release at noon sharp on Friday, my favorite film of the fest (Frances Ha), was not on my must see list but appeared to be my only hope to meet the three “paid” film quota I had set for myself as of Monday morning. It enjoyed multiple showings and earned praise of other attendees, so keeping an open mind proved worthwhile, as I diverted my disappointed from not being among the guests to get into the film which drew me out of bed despite my previous late night (recovering from reading subtitles until 1:00 am). Had I given up when my first choice didn’t work out, I would have missed out on what turned out to be a great film.

Fall for Telluride
My final tip for enjoying the Telluride Film Fest on a budget is to realize that it doesn’t have to be all about the films. Just “being” part of the atmosphere adds to the charm. You will probably brush elbows with celebrities and directors and not even realize it. And even if you do, you will stand back and take it in to maintain the cool atmosphere.

This event gave us the chance to enjoy Telluride on a local level. I found that details about “local” hikes were hard to come by online – most hard core hikers focus on destination trips (ie 14ers). Since we were traveling with our dog, our goal every morning was to bring him to the point of exhaustion, early, so we could confidently leave him to quietly nurse his hiking hangover while we enjoyed the festival. Therefore we enjoyed “easy” rated hikes (some as little as a half mile round trip, but provided exponential enjoyment), and a couple that left me begging for a nap before our venture into the quiet frenzy of the fest.

Travel Hound in Training: The Road to Crested Butte

December 12, 2011 in Travel Hound | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

We have been away for awhile, and by that I mean we have not been away nearly often enough. Establishing roots in our new town has distracted from our vacation time. Part of this process included adopting a new basenji-mix, Jabari, and helping him to become acclimated to his new home. Our first road trip from Denver to Crested Butte was our first test to see if has what it takes to become the next Travel Hound. 

Every one of Jabari’s travel events that we know of has held some major significance to him. First, coming from Egypt to the U.S., and then from a shelter in Montana to live with us in Denver four months ago. It’s no wonder that he becomes stressed to the point of being sick nearly every time we go anywhere in the car. But we feel that sharing our local and regional travels with our dog is an important component of our lives. So we had no choice but to give it a try.

Our trip started with some early modifications when we missed the turn to Bassam Park, where we had intended on spending the morning snowshoeing. Jabari had shown a surprising passion for snow based on the few snowfalls we have had to date, so we were curious about how he would take to a full plateau of snow. It turned out to be for the best to miss this portion, since the area had less snow than we had in our backyard, so it really wasn’t worth the effort. 

Instead, we stopped for a quick walk near Ruby Mountain and then headed to Buena Vista for some lunch. It was a warm day, so we asked the host at the local brewpub if we could sit on the patio with our dog. We got the same response as we did the time we traveled there with our previous dog, Tobie, in April 2010. A hesitant, but hospitable “sure, no problem.” It occurred to us that our visit to this same spot with Tobie was during what ended up being our last vacation with him, about four months before he passed. In a way, it was as if the Travel Hound torch had officially been passed to Jabari, as we shared our first lunch with him at a public establishment. 

We had never been to Crested Butte, and early December is the perfect time to go to enjoy shoulder season rates, both for lodging and for lift tickets. We arrived in the eclectic, unpretentious mountain town, and spent enough time to take Jabari for a quick walk around the main street. He does not get along with most new dogs he meets for the first time, and we were concerned that he would be fined for not having a chill attitude (this was actually a clause in our condo rental contract – directed at people, of course, but still). Luckily, we had no encounters with dogs, but he did show a strong liking for a gentleman who was working on posting a sign – one that forbade people from tying up their dogs unattended while they shopped. He thought it was ironic, but Jabari seemed to know that this man had the best interest of him and his fellow canines in mind.

Crested Butte was frigid in the morning, but for this year in particular lacked any significant natural snow. Jabari eagerly spent the day napping in his crate while his people skied. For me, I felt the uncrowded mountain offered a good variety of challenging green and blue runs that helped me to secure my defensive skiing skills for the congested slopes within range of Denver day-trippers, where I would be spending the rest of my ski season. My husband, who prefers advanced terrain, was disappointed by the lack of access that is typical so early in the season. We traded the car-picnics that we usually rely on when skiing closer to home with the full ski resort experience, lunch and all. We toasted to opening day of the Ice Bar near the Twister lift and our favorite lunch spot became the Avalanche Bar and Grill. 

Because this vacation was more about bonding as a new family, our evenings were spent together at the condo, after one of us returned early from the slopes to walk Jabari in the unseasonably warm afternoons. Some nights we would cook, and one night we walked across the street to Django for some more culinary takeout. We accompanied every meal with the local brew from Eldo Brewery, which we were able to take home in growlers. 

Since we wanted to make vacations extra special for Jabari, we bended some rules as we let him join us on the couch for our nightly movie, and we let him share our Raclette and potatoes on our final evening. We found that he appeared to be more attentive, and while still vocalizing his concerns over any little noise, he seemed more responsive to our “demands”. 

On the return trip home, we made a couple stops along the way to let Jabari romp in some snow when we could find it. Specifically, at the Continental Divide on Monarch Pass, and then on a side trip to the ghost town of St. Elmo.

We were hoping that Jabari’s attentiveness and improved manners would extend beyond our vacation mode. We’ve been home for a couple of hours now, and so far Jabari and I have had a heated debate about whether or not he will be groomed, he has returned to his counter surfing antics, and has stolen a sock. And, he has just announced, in a single bark, that he is on the couch – when does the movie start? So perhaps bringing the “chill” home from vacation is too much to hope for. Will more vacations help? We are certainly eager to find out.

Facing Devils, Finding Paradise

January 3, 2011 in Australia | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

We almost missed Tasmania.  We had flown from Adelaide to Melbourne for the night, but darn all of the silly time changes, and this one was only 30 minutes!   Staying at the hotel adjacent to the airport almost didn’t even save us.  We arrived completely winded as the counter agent was about ready to go move to the gate to play gate agent for awhile.  That’s right.  There is one agent that does everything, and when it’s time to move on to the next step in the process, well that’s it.  After everyone was safely seated, I’m pretty sure our gate agent also settled into the pilot seat to fly the plane.  Our adventure would now begin.

 

 

  
  
  
 

 

Finding Paradise
As small as Tasmania is, it was impossible for us to see everything on our list in the short about of time we were there. We spent five days exploring the northern and eastern side of the tiny Australian state. The rugged landscapes of Cradle Mountain, Freycinet, and Tasman Peninsula did not disappoint. Driving through Tasmania, you might even find Paradise. No really. On the way to Cradle Mountain from Sheffield, there is a town with two country houses in the shadow of Mount Roland. The name of that town is Paradise. It’s actually not too far from Promised Land.

Considering that our trip to Australia was for nearly three weeks, we were considered to be luggage superheros with a 21” rollaboard and a small tote bag each. This meant that it was pertinent to find accommodations with laundry facilities along the way. The evening we stayed in Tamar Valley, we had a cottage with a washer, but it was customary to not have a dryer and to dry everything on the line. We gave it a shot, and sure enough, in the morning we had a suitcase full of wet clothes. We didn’t have time to wait for them to dry – we had more countryside to explore. So we lined the back of the rental car with our wet clothes and took off to fuel up at the full service gas station. “Doing some touring?” our attendant inquired when he saw our underwear strewn about the car. Between drying our clothes on the line and not being able to pump our own gas, we really felt like we had stepped back in time.

Local Fare
Outside of Outback Steakhouse, how many restaurants can you think of that feature Australian cuisine? In general, we would find a bakery here and there that offered (of course) meat pies. While traveling through the tiny towns along our route, we found it challenging to find things open past 7:00 or 8:00 pm, so we learned to eat early or to go to bed without our dinner.

One morning, we stopped into a bakery to grab some sweet treats for breakfast. I ordered the mud cake. I don’t know if it is customary or an accident, but that thing was full of eggshells. Yum.

On our final day in Tasmania, we planned a visit to the Cadbury plant in Hobart. Our goal was to just visit the gift shop, but they only grant access to people who are taking the tour. So, for the bargain price of $25, we were able to save about $5 off of our purchases. We learned during the tour that recipes are different within local markets. A Cadbury bar that you try from England tastes different than one from Australia. We returned to the airport later that day thinking that we would grab some lunch there. At the time we were passing through, the only food available was from a vending machine. Luckily we had so much chocolate on hand – enough that it was a punishment by the time our hunger was satiated.  Even though I will still take an Australian Cadbury over a British one any day.

Local Brew
The Tamar Valley is the area’s local wine region, sprinkled with wineries along the countryside, reminiscent of Russian River in California, but on a much smaller scale. We dedicated a day of exploration, with the privilege of enjoying a fine lunch at the Roseavers winery. It was “privilege”, I guess, because we walked into an empty restaurant during business hours, and the hostess said she would need to check with a manager to see if there was anything available. Luckily we were deemed servable, when we were led to a table shortly thereafter.

Before leaving Tamar Valley, we had a couple of stops to make. The first was a strawberry patch that also sold strawberry wine. The overly eager attendant poured us a sample of the wine, and then samples of pancake syrup that were so sweet it was too much for even my sweet tooth. Then he insisted we pick some berries from the field “for the experience”. Feeling obligated, we picked about ten berries between the two of us (which he didn’t charge us for) and bought a small bottle of strawberry wine.

Our final Tamar Valley stop was Pipers Brook winery, which makes a fabulous Pinot Noir (9th Island), which we can get back home, at least at the time of our trip. We learned at the winery that Australia imposes a 41% tax on wine, which means it’s cheaper for us to buy it back home. 9th Island had an excellent chardonnay, and I was assured that we should be able to find that somewhere back home, so we ended only buying one bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. We never did find that Chardonnay, and many years later we are hard pressed to find the Pinot Noir.

Tasmania has more than excellent wine. It is home to Australia’s oldest brewery, the Cascade Brewery. We had been enjoying their lager for a majority of our trip, and now we could go to the source. Since we didn’t have enough room in our luggage to bring a lot home, we picked up a homebrew kit from their gift shop so we could make our own batch upon our return.

Facing Your Devil
Growing up with Looney Tunes, who wouldn’t fantasize about meeting the crazy devil that comes from a mysterious land far away? If I had one goal for this trip, it was to see a Tasmanian devil. Upon arriving at Cradle Mountain on the very first afternoon, I did what I always do – head for the gift shop. Meanwhile, my husband is loitering outside because he just hates to shop that much. Just outside the gift shop, he comes face to face with his devil (a rare occurrence in broad daylight). Of course the encounter was brief, and I would have thought he was totally making it up if it didn’t have the picture to prove it. This made my obsession spin out of control (kind of like Taz, I guess). In the end, I gave in our last night on the island and paid for a Devils in the Dark tour. Sometimes facing your devil comes with a price, but with the devils facing the risk of extinction, I’m glad I had the opportunity.

Southeast Canyon Crashing

September 22, 2010 in Travel Hound | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

 

Travel Hound

Fall has always been my favorite season, so I felt a no more appropriate way to celebrate the first day of autumn by reminiscing about some of my most memorable canyon hikes in the southeast.  We would almost always bring along our favorite travel companion, Tobie, as we explored the natural wonders of our region.  This year’s equinox is a particular adjustment, as my old boy has passed on and this will be my first autumn in twelve years without him being a central part of my life.  So as the travel hound chapter of my life closes, I’m looking forward to new adventures while remembering such precious pieces of my past.  

Providence Canyon, Lumpkin, GA 

Providence Canyon

Signs of Life

Manmade Erosion

I have to say that it is ironic that this canyon in the central-western part of Georgia is considered one of the “Seven Natural Wonders of Georgia”.  The canyon was man-made—by poor farming practices that led to erosion—in the 1800s.  Not exactly a natural wonder, but I have to admit that it is a beautiful display of layered reds against an intense blue sky.  While the visitor center of this state park is no longer open, visitors can access the fragile canyon through hiking trails that wind down to the canyon floor.  Evidence of inhabitation exists along the trails, with abandoned ruins of farm equipment and vehicles along the way.  This is a pleasurable hike for your canine friends, especially those that love to feel the sand between their toes.     

 Little River Canyon, Fort Pierce, AL 

Little River Falls

Mushroom Rock

Grace's High Falls

It wasn’t until we were heading down the path of moving from the Southeast that we stumbled upon this nearby gem.  And had it not been for Man vs. Wild, it might have not ever entered our radar.  But when Bear Gryllis warned viewers of alligator infested waters, we absolutely had to check it out.  There are indeed not alligators so far north, but what we found was a beautiful way to enjoy a scenic drive on an autumn day.  Hiking is treacherous in this area, so this place is more about lingering at the overlooks of the 11 mile drive along the canyon.  And because the November air can be much more cutting in the South than many Northerners can imagine, we were grateful for the warmth of our heated seats for this trip.      

Cloudland Canyon, Rising Fawn, GA 

Cloudland Canyon

Canyon Hound

Canyon Stairs

Not to be biased, but I’m definitely saving the best for last.  Cloudland Canyon has always been a source of ever changing fascination for us and drew us back many times.  A cool retreat from the infamous Southern humidity in the summer, and awe-inspiring views of fiery color in the fall.  We’ve seen the evolution of the park throughout the years, eventually gaining access to hike through the canyon floor with the addition of a mile or so of stairs to the bottom.    

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Talullah Gorge, Talullah Falls, GA – honarable mention

Suspension Bridge

Lower Falls

Tallulah Gorge

We have too many good memories of Rabun County, Georgia, to recount here.  Our first camping trip with Tobie was at Black Rock Mountain State Park in 2000, which is north of Tallulah Gorge.  Tallulah Gorge is a young state park, established in 1993.  Back in the day, you could hike down to the bottom of the canyon with your dog.  It took us nine years to return, after exploring the entire Southeast looking for something that compared to the charm of this part of the state.  There have been many enhancements made to Tallulah Gorge since then, including adding a pedestrian suspension bridge over the gorge.  With these amenities came changes in policy—specifically that dogs were no longer allowed on the stairs to the bottom of the canyon.  Still, the area is breathtaking, and definitely worth a visit.       

In-Climate Bruges

June 12, 2010 in Europe | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

I’m adjusting to my new home in Colorado – record highs one day followed by record lows the next.  As I’m steeping in an unseasonbly cold and wet morning (followed by days of record highs), I’m reminiscing about a trip a few Junes ago.  Bruges is the fairy-tale that you’ve heard a hundred times, caught between sheer idyllic bliss and complete boredom.   Throw in an extremely inclimate 12 degrees Celsius breezy, rainy mix in June, and what is left to do?  Take in all the sights you can in between the best pub crawl you’ll ever experience.  

Cafe Vlissighe

If not for the unseasonably cold and wet weather, we may have missed the hidden charm of Bruges. 

View from clock tower

We sought refuge from the freezing cold by ducking into the clock tower in the center of town, which provided excellent views of the town below.  The field trip of school children immediately behind us set the pace, as we are always looking for the perfect, tourist-free photo opportunity. 

On the Canal

Despite the freezing, damp cold, a trip to Bruges would not be complete without a canal tour.  What lucky ducks were we that we floated by these ducks that were shaking off the cold themselves. 

Do Galle (Bruges)

First by sea (or canal, anyway), then by land, our carriage driver directed us to a pub down a quiet alley.  It quickly lost its charm when one of the few beers on tap, (the one that I ordered) was not from Belgium, but Texas. 

Dinner in a hail storm

We built up quite an appetite after so much sight seeing, and settled in for the traditional mussels and beer on the square.  If you look carefully, you can see the hail pellets on our table. 

Threatening skies

We were only in Bruges for two nights, but we managed to find our own favorite local haunt.  We ended up at Cambrinus both nights, for a generous sampling of beer and Flemish stew.  When the skies threatened us, we knew we would find safe haven.  Not quite a robust as Cafe Delerium in Brussels, which holds the world record for the most beers available, Cambrinus boasts an impressive 400 varieties, which was certainly enough to keep a couple of beer snobs entertained. 

Vlissighe - the oldest pub in Bruges

Just a stumble from our hotel, Cafe Vlissinghe is the oldest pub in Bruges, dating back to 1515.  If you’re lucky enough to have been inside, and paid close attention while watching In Bruges, you will realize that you may have shared a seat with Colin Farrell.

Chocolate museum

You can only have so much beer before getting the munchies, so luckily the other epicurism that Belgium is famous for is chocolate.  The Chocolate Museum houses works of art that are good enough to eat.  Unfortunately, if you’re hungry, you will need to head to one of the many chocolate shops in town to satisfy your craving.

Bruges street

Despite the less than fairy tale condition, Bruges was definitely a dream.

Moab: No Special Equipment Required

May 11, 2010 in USA | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Many of my travel blog posts are a product of relatively distant memories in my attempt to recount some of my favorite journeys.  It is a rare treat to write about a fresh memory.  It was just over a week ago since we returned from our first visit to Moab, and I could not wait to share the experience.

We knew we would be challenged on our short three night visit to Moab to even scratch the rocky surface of what this natural playground has to offer.  There are endless opportunities for biking, rafting, four-wheeling and climbing.  Overwhelmed by the possibilities, we decided to stick with our most primitive mode of transportation – our own two feet – for a majority of our visit to the area parks.

The drive from Denver to Moab generally takes between 5-6 hours, and had we not spent so much time enjoying stops along the way, we might have not been as compressed to see the Moab sites as we were.  But after braving icy roads through Vail Pass, we were ready for a break in Palisade to sample some local wines, and primed ourselves for Utah’s expansive canyons by driving through the Colorado Monument National  Park.  All worthwhile stops, but our journey through Utah’s open range left us feeling like we would indeed be driving until the cows came home.  From the time we left Fruita, we were teased by exit signs of towns that didn’t really exist, as our gas gauge sank towards “E”, giving us the constant thrill of whether or not we would make it to the nearest gas station in Moab.  We made it….barely.

Lodging  in Moab ranges from basic camping to ultra-posh resorts.  Camping is generally rustic – many campgrounds along the river provide only pit toilets.  Even the campground in Arches National Park does not have showers.  Our previous camping expeditions have not been quite so primitive, so we opted for the cozy Castle Valley Inn.  This was a very good call, as the weather was unseasonably cold and rainy, and being the peak season, last minute reservations can be hard to come by.

After settling in for the evening and taking what felt like merely a quick nap, we set out early the next day to attempt to catch the sunrise at Arches.  Our lodging was about 30 minutes from the park, which we accounted for, but what we failed to consider was the length of time required to drive to the prime attractions once we arrived at the park.  We made it all the way to the Windows section before we decided that if we didn’t seize the sunrise, we would miss the opportunity.  Being the photographers’ paradise that it is, we followed the crowd and climbed to a spot that would provide the best lighting.  The day, however, was cloudy, and the sunrise subdued.

But the early birds still do get the worm, and we were among the first on the Devil’s Garden trail.  The primitive loop is comprised of 7.2 miles, including easy walks to Tunnel Arch, Pine Tree Arch and the famous Landscape Arch, which is the longest natural arch in the world.  Next, we followed the trail along the fin to the location of the fallen Wall Arch, which crumbled to the ground in August 2008.  This portion of the trail introduces you to what you are in for on the remainder of the hike, where some light climbing skills are required.  The signs warn of strenuous conditions, and this is by far the most challenging hike I’ve ever been on.  The trail alternates between desert sand and slick rock, and all of the practice at Panola or Stone Mountain in Atlanta will not prepare you for some of the steep, slippery rocks encountered along the way.  Those that choose to venture along the complete route are rewarded with access to many more arches, including the Double O Arch, and are led across a fin here, past desert blooms there.

After dragging ourselves to the parking lot nearly four hours later, we discovered the most beautiful aspect of our early journey.  We avoided the massive crowds!   By lunchtime on a Friday, the park was packed and people were waiting for a parking spot.  We were grateful for the many photo opportunities on the trail that were free of people.

Our evening activity was a sunset boat cruise with Canyonlands by Night.  Well, not exactly a sunset cruise, more like a late afternoon cruise.  Our options were to take the early ride and bring our cameras, or to take the true sunset cruise and leave our cameras behind, due to the boat operator’s policies.  This was a worthwhile excursion that provided a different view of the canyons, as our guide shared stories about the area.

Once the tour was complete and we quickly ate a dinner provided as part of our cruise package, we realized that the sun still needed to set.  If we hurried, we could make it back to Arches for a spectacular sunset.  Our visit occurred during an unusually cloudy weekend, which only made the experience more striking.  After spending the day literally from sunrise to sunset, we were ready to recharge for the adventures of day two.

On the second day, we were overwhelmed with indecision.  We were scheduled for a ranger led Fiery Furnace hike later in the day, and we knew that could lead to disaster if we overestimated our hiking abilities in the morning.  At the suggestion of our innkeepers, we decided to grab a picnic lunch and head to Dead Horse Point State Park.  The park adjoins Canyonlands National Park and provides vast vistas of the Colorado River cutting through the seemingly limitless canyon.  And, it’s the location of the final scene from Thelma & Louise, for you trivia buffs out there.

After lunch we were left with enough time to pick a quick attraction on our way to the Fiery Furnace.  We chose to stop at the viewpoint section for Delicate Arch, which offers a viewing area right off of the parking lot, as well as a short hike to enjoy views from another angle.  From our vantage we could see all of the people that appeared like a colony of ants from the distance. 

The capstone of our day was participating in a hike through the Fiery Furnace in Arches.  This area has no marked trails and is only accessible after obtaining the appropriate permit, or by participating in a guided hike.  For first timers, the guided hike is highly recommended to learn about minimizing environmental impact in the area, as well as how to get through the furnace.  The hike definitely stretches perspective and abilities, as hikers leap over crevices, squeeze their way through infant arches and between tight fins, and slide down slick rock.  Hikers are treated to views of arches viewable from only inside the furnace, natural pools and private gardens.  Good hiking shoes and water carried in a backpack are required.  On our hike, as in most hikes (I’m guessing) there are participants who are ill-equipped for the challenges of the hike.  A video to help understand the demands of the hike is available at the National Park Service’s website.  That said, we were prepared and eager for the aspects of this challenging experience.

Our final day was the hardest of all.  We had to drive back to Denver and knew that we would again encounter some snowy challenges along the way.  We had only until early afternoon to take in the last of Moab.  So many choices – we hadn’t even made it to Canyonlands yet, and there was so much to see there.  In the end, we decided to complete what we could of Arches.  After all, who knows if another arch may crumble to the ground before we can make it back.  In the early morning, we hiked to Delicate Arch.  Like our Devil’s Garden hike, our early start yielded access to the arch with few visitors and ample photo opportunities.   The hardest thing about the hike was deciding when to leave – we knew we had to be on our way.

With a short amount of time to spare before we absolutely had hit the road, we decided to squeeze in one final hike to the area just off of the Devil’s Garden campground.  This hike through the desert included Sand Dune Arch, Broken Arch and Skyline Arch, as well as one by the name of Tapestry Arch, which was not listed on our map.  While journeying through the desert in between stops, the rainy weather turned to sleet.  How many people can say that they have been caught in a sleet storm in the desert in May?  Luckily, it was surprisingly refreshing and brief.

We learned from our journey that sometimes there just is not enough time to explore all of the options available and you have to make some tough decisions.  We view this trip as a “Moab Sampler”, and know that we have just scratched the surface of all that the area has to offer.  Someday we will return and visit Canyonlands.  Someday we will raft through Westwater Canyon.  Someday we will bring our bikes along.  I hope that someday comes soon.

Cabrillo Highway Glamping

April 24, 2010 in USA | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Our journey along the rugged twists and turns of the Cabrillo Highway was sandwiched in between visits to the luscious wine regions of Russian River, Paso Robles and Santa Maria.  While our trek included a stop at the popular Hearst Castle, our story is about the wild side of this legendary excursion. 

The portion of this famous stretch of highway is a mere 135 miles from Monterey to San Luis Obispo, but you will need to take plenty of time to explore the dramatic vistas and to carefully navigate the tight turns.  Bixby Bridge, thirteen miles south of Monterey, is northern gateway to the unspoiled beauty of the dramatic California coastline.  The bridge was completed in 1932, and opened up access to Big Sur from the north.  Prior to its completion, travelers had to endure 30 miles of treacherous travel.  Now the precarious travel begins beyond the bridge, as the journey harshly bends along a coastal cliff line.

So much adrenaline can really build an appetite.  A necessary stop to refuel is Nepenthe Restaurant, which promises one of the most spectacular views you may enjoy, ever.   I can’t remember what we even ordered, we were so distracted by the view.  Pricey, of course, but this is par for the course in along this stretch of the Cabrillo Highway.

Accommodations along the central portion of the Cabrillo Highway can be quite expensive, and are concentrated near Big Sur and Lucia, which are separated by 25 twisty and treacherous miles.  Big Sur accommodations range from the moderate Big Sur Lodge and Deetjens Big Sur Inn to the ultra luxurious Ventana Inn or Post Ranch Inn.  Lucia accommodations are more moderate, and some popular choices include Lucia Lodge and Gorda Springs Resort.  Even tent campsites in this area can cost up to $50 a night (and that doesn’t even include a tent!)  Although, the Big Sur Campground and Cabins does provide a “tent cabin”, complete with a queen bed and linens for $98 in the high season.

Longing for something in between camping and ultra-posh, we spent two nights in a yurt at Treebones Resort.  There we enjoyed the comfort of a cozy bed, plenty of blankets and a personal sink, with restrooms a short walk away.  A waffle breakfast is included in the lodge each morning, so there is no need to struggle with an early morning campfire to boil water for your coffee.  As a matter of fact, you can leave all of your cooking to the experts at the lodge, which offers deli lunches and fine dining in the evening. 

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is home to McWay Falls.  These falls may only be enjoyed from a distance, but this means that you will have the opportunity to take a postcard perfect photo without anyone getting in the way.  This park also offers hiking trails and campsites.

It panged me to learn that Limekiln State Park was damaged in the Chalk Fire in September and October of 2009 and is currently closed.  Our visit occurred a year and a half before the fire, so we were able to enjoy a short hike beneath the tranquil redwoods to the limekilns that were once used to “cook” limestone into building materials, as well as to visit a charming waterfall.

Seven miles north of San Simeon is Piedras Blancas, a rookery for elephant seals.  Our visit in late April actually occurred during the peak season to see these mammals ashore.  They spend most of their time in the ocean, but congregate twice a year on the beach.  This is a perfect spot to observe the spectacle.  And for us, that meant a beach full of seals sunning themselves during their afternoon nap.

Moonstone Beach is one of the most unique beaches that I have visited, and is indeed one of my favorites.  Who knew that a rocky beach would be such a work of art?  Here, there is no sand to sink your toes into.  The shoreline consists of smooth, multicolored rocks and moonstones.  Nearby Cambria provides a break from driving with a picturesque main street filled with galleries and specialty shops, where you can pick up your own moonstone gem of a souvenir.

The complete southbound journey continues through San Luis Obispo through Los Angeles and down to Orange County.  We were anxious to get to the next segment of our trip – a detour through Paso Robles wine country – so this is where our Carbillo Highway journey ends for now.

Chasing Waterfalls in North Carolina

April 7, 2010 in Travel Hound | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Travel Hound

Spring’s here and it’s time for a road trip! Whether it’s hiking to vast vistas or chasing waterfalls, it seems like there are endless exploration possibilities in Western North Carolina. Below are some highlights to help your own furry friend temporarily transform into a Carolina Dog.

Highlands Botanical Garden – This attraction is free and open year round, and you and your pup can stroll the lush trails together.  Additionally, the Nature Center is located directly across the road from the Sunset Rock trail, a .6 mile one way trip that provides an overlook of Highlands.

Highlands Botanical Garden

Bridal Veil Falls – Just to confuse you, there are two Bridal Veil Falls in North Carolina.  One is near Brevard, and is accessible via a five mile round trip hike.  The one that we visited was off of Highway 64, between Highlands and Franklin.  A turn off along the road allows you to drive under the falls.  Our furry friend was not impressed by the close proximity to the falls.  It’s way too early in the journey for it to be bath time.

Bridal Veil Falls

Standing Indian – There are a couple of different options to access the summit of this mountain, which is the highest point of the Appalachian Trail south of the Smokies.  We opted for the shorter, yet more strenuous, trail from Deep Gap.  The effort was worth it, as the vista point provided miles of panoramic views.

Standing Indian Summit

White Water Falls – The highest falls east of the Rockies are one of the most photo friendly in the area.  It is near the North and South Carolina borders, off of NC 281.  The viewing platform is an easy paved walk (approx ½ mile).  Unfortunately, you won’t be able to get very close.  It is worth a visit, nonetheless.  

White Water Falls

Courthouse Falls – There was so much anticipation traveling to these falls.  Would we ever find it?  Off of NC 215 in Transylvania County, one must take a forest service road for approximately three miles.  The markers for the trail are difficult to spot, so if you are lucky, there will be a car or two parked near the trailhead to help show you the way.  Well worth the journey, you can climb down to the falls, and if properly equipped, cool off in the pool below.

Courthouse Falls

Glen Falls – just south of Highlands is this gem of a waterfall hike, where you get three falls for the price of one.  As the trail descends, each vista gets better and better as each section of the falls is revealed.  You can get very close to these falls, so be sure to use plenty of caution.  The falls are located three miles south of Highlands on NC 106.

Glen Falls

Such a short drive from Atlanta, the hardest aspect of the trip will be tearing yourself away to make the journey back.  And these highlights only scratch the surface of all the exploration that is available in such a small section of the state.

Kangaroo Island: Mingling with the Local Hosts

March 9, 2010 in Australia | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave a comment

On our whirlwind Aussie tour, we spent only two nights on Kangaroo Island.  Such a short time to mingle with the kangaroos, wallabies and koala that are protected there.

KI is accessible from Adelaide via ferry or small plane.  On this jam-packed trip, there was no time to waste, so we flew in from Adelaide on an early morning flight.  Our accommodations for the trip were about an hour and a half away, at the Western KI Caravan Park.  We had to stop at a local market in Kingscote to buy provisions for our stay – a rustic cabin with kitchen facilities.  True KI “glamping” indeed.  Our first stop on the way to the western side of the island was Seal Bay.  We attempted to have a picnic lunch, but shortly after settling in at a picnic table, rain was added to the poor weather repertoire of cold and wind.  It seemed as if we have superpowers to control the weather, but only by bringing the opposite of the desired effect.

After our frigid lunch, we braved the weather to watch the seals on the beach.  Visitors must buy a ticket for a guided tour to see the seals up close for 45 minutes.  The time flew by as we were entertained by the antics of teenage hoodlum seals that were wrestling each other and harassing other seals that were trying to take a snooze on the beach.  Meanwhile, a mischievous pup lost his mommy while chasing a seagull.  To reunite with one another, the mother and pup would call out to each other and be drawn together by their cries.  They would verify they were a “match” by scent – and onlookers can tell by the way the pup jumped around that he knew he was no longer lost.

Anxious to see more wildlife, our next stop was to get settled into our cabin.  The site was a nature preserve, but where was all of the wildlife?  Perhaps they were sheltering themselves from the inclimate weather.  

Before dusk, we went to see the Kelly Hill Caves, which is a dry limestone cave.  We also hiked around that property a bit, and I saw an echidna there.  I was still getting a bit impatient about not seeing any koalas or ‘roos yet. 

We returned to the cabin in the late afternoon and walked through a small reserve on the property that was home to many wallabies and koalas, who appeared to still be in hiding.  Then we heard what sounded like a donkey belching.  Looking around, and then up, we saw a koala perched in a tree over our heads.  Finally, the wildlife show began.

Not too long after returning to the cabin to make dinner, the field just off of our porch was filled with kangaroos and joeys feeding.  Our dinner theater was the interaction of all of the wildlife before us.

The following morning, we went to Flinders Chase National Park.  We arrived so early that the visitors’ center wasn’t open yet, so we had to hang out in the parking lot for about a half-hour before buying our parking pass.  The welcome wagon consisted of a panhandling ‘roo that looked like it had a few too many the previous night.  It lumbered right up to us, very sluggishly. 

Once we paid our admission into the park, we checked out Remarkable Rocks, the Cape de Courdic lighthouse and Admiral’s Arch. This area is also home to New Zealand fur seals, that you can smell from a mile away.

Later in the afternoon, we took a hike at Sandy Creek.  We followed a bumpy gravel road to the trailhead, which looked like it hadn’t seen visitors in months.  Taking the seemingly unmaintained trail was worth it, though.  We found a private beach with an outcrop of rocks and an arch.  It was fascinating to have such an incredible place all to ourselves. 

The following morning we set out for the airport to begin the next leg of our Aussie adventure.  The drive was treacherous, as we had to avoid running over the wallabies that flooded the road, looking for their breakfast.   Sad to leave so soon, but anxious to embark on the next leg of our journey, we bid farewell to our local hosts.

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