Our journey along the rugged twists and turns of the Cabrillo Highway was sandwiched in between visits to the luscious wine regions of Russian River, Paso Robles and Santa Maria.  While our trek included a stop at the popular Hearst Castle, our story is about the wild side of this legendary excursion. 

The portion of this famous stretch of highway is a mere 135 miles from Monterey to San Luis Obispo, but you will need to take plenty of time to explore the dramatic vistas and to carefully navigate the tight turns.  Bixby Bridge, thirteen miles south of Monterey, is northern gateway to the unspoiled beauty of the dramatic California coastline.  The bridge was completed in 1932, and opened up access to Big Sur from the north.  Prior to its completion, travelers had to endure 30 miles of treacherous travel.  Now the precarious travel begins beyond the bridge, as the journey harshly bends along a coastal cliff line.

So much adrenaline can really build an appetite.  A necessary stop to refuel is Nepenthe Restaurant, which promises one of the most spectacular views you may enjoy, ever.   I can’t remember what we even ordered, we were so distracted by the view.  Pricey, of course, but this is par for the course in along this stretch of the Cabrillo Highway.

Accommodations along the central portion of the Cabrillo Highway can be quite expensive, and are concentrated near Big Sur and Lucia, which are separated by 25 twisty and treacherous miles.  Big Sur accommodations range from the moderate Big Sur Lodge and Deetjens Big Sur Inn to the ultra luxurious Ventana Inn or Post Ranch Inn.  Lucia accommodations are more moderate, and some popular choices include Lucia Lodge and Gorda Springs Resort.  Even tent campsites in this area can cost up to $50 a night (and that doesn’t even include a tent!)  Although, the Big Sur Campground and Cabins does provide a “tent cabin”, complete with a queen bed and linens for $98 in the high season.

Longing for something in between camping and ultra-posh, we spent two nights in a yurt at Treebones Resort.  There we enjoyed the comfort of a cozy bed, plenty of blankets and a personal sink, with restrooms a short walk away.  A waffle breakfast is included in the lodge each morning, so there is no need to struggle with an early morning campfire to boil water for your coffee.  As a matter of fact, you can leave all of your cooking to the experts at the lodge, which offers deli lunches and fine dining in the evening. 

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is home to McWay Falls.  These falls may only be enjoyed from a distance, but this means that you will have the opportunity to take a postcard perfect photo without anyone getting in the way.  This park also offers hiking trails and campsites.

It panged me to learn that Limekiln State Park was damaged in the Chalk Fire in September and October of 2009 and is currently closed.  Our visit occurred a year and a half before the fire, so we were able to enjoy a short hike beneath the tranquil redwoods to the limekilns that were once used to “cook” limestone into building materials, as well as to visit a charming waterfall.

Seven miles north of San Simeon is Piedras Blancas, a rookery for elephant seals.  Our visit in late April actually occurred during the peak season to see these mammals ashore.  They spend most of their time in the ocean, but congregate twice a year on the beach.  This is a perfect spot to observe the spectacle.  And for us, that meant a beach full of seals sunning themselves during their afternoon nap.

Moonstone Beach is one of the most unique beaches that I have visited, and is indeed one of my favorites.  Who knew that a rocky beach would be such a work of art?  Here, there is no sand to sink your toes into.  The shoreline consists of smooth, multicolored rocks and moonstones.  Nearby Cambria provides a break from driving with a picturesque main street filled with galleries and specialty shops, where you can pick up your own moonstone gem of a souvenir.

The complete southbound journey continues through San Luis Obispo through Los Angeles and down to Orange County.  We were anxious to get to the next segment of our trip – a detour through Paso Robles wine country – so this is where our Carbillo Highway journey ends for now.

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