Every one of Jabari’s travel events that we know of has held some major significance to him. First, coming from Egypt to the U.S., and then from a shelter in Montana to live with us in Denver four months ago. It’s no wonder that he becomes stressed to the point of being sick nearly every time we go anywhere in the car. But we feel that sharing our local and regional travels with our dog is an important component of our lives. So we had no choice but to give it a try.

Our trip started with some early modifications when we missed the turn to Bassam Park, where we had intended on spending the morning snowshoeing. Jabari had shown a surprising passion for snow based on the few snowfalls we have had to date, so we were curious about how he would take to a full plateau of snow. It turned out to be for the best to miss this portion, since the area had less snow than we had in our backyard, so it really wasn’t worth the effort. 

Instead, we stopped for a quick walk near Ruby Mountain and then headed to Buena Vista for some lunch. It was a warm day, so we asked the host at the local brewpub if we could sit on the patio with our dog. We got the same response as we did the time we traveled there with our previous dog, Tobie, in April 2010. A hesitant, but hospitable “sure, no problem.” It occurred to us that our visit to this same spot with Tobie was during what ended up being our last vacation with him, about four months before he passed. In a way, it was as if the Travel Hound torch had officially been passed to Jabari, as we shared our first lunch with him at a public establishment. 

We had never been to Crested Butte, and early December is the perfect time to go to enjoy shoulder season rates, both for lodging and for lift tickets. We arrived in the eclectic, unpretentious mountain town, and spent enough time to take Jabari for a quick walk around the main street. He does not get along with most new dogs he meets for the first time, and we were concerned that he would be fined for not having a chill attitude (this was actually a clause in our condo rental contract – directed at people, of course, but still). Luckily, we had no encounters with dogs, but he did show a strong liking for a gentleman who was working on posting a sign – one that forbade people from tying up their dogs unattended while they shopped. He thought it was ironic, but Jabari seemed to know that this man had the best interest of him and his fellow canines in mind.

Crested Butte was frigid in the morning, but for this year in particular lacked any significant natural snow. Jabari eagerly spent the day napping in his crate while his people skied. For me, I felt the uncrowded mountain offered a good variety of challenging green and blue runs that helped me to secure my defensive skiing skills for the congested slopes within range of Denver day-trippers, where I would be spending the rest of my ski season. My husband, who prefers advanced terrain, was disappointed by the lack of access that is typical so early in the season. We traded the car-picnics that we usually rely on when skiing closer to home with the full ski resort experience, lunch and all. We toasted to opening day of the Ice Bar near the Twister lift and our favorite lunch spot became the Avalanche Bar and Grill. 

Because this vacation was more about bonding as a new family, our evenings were spent together at the condo, after one of us returned early from the slopes to walk Jabari in the unseasonably warm afternoons. Some nights we would cook, and one night we walked across the street to Django for some more culinary takeout. We accompanied every meal with the local brew from Eldo Brewery, which we were able to take home in growlers. 

Since we wanted to make vacations extra special for Jabari, we bended some rules as we let him join us on the couch for our nightly movie, and we let him share our Raclette and potatoes on our final evening. We found that he appeared to be more attentive, and while still vocalizing his concerns over any little noise, he seemed more responsive to our “demands”. 

On the return trip home, we made a couple stops along the way to let Jabari romp in some snow when we could find it. Specifically, at the Continental Divide on Monarch Pass, and then on a side trip to the ghost town of St. Elmo.

Travel Hound Jr.

We were hoping that Jabari’s attentiveness and improved manners would extend beyond our vacation mode. We’ve been home for a couple of hours now, and so far Jabari and I have had a heated debate about whether or not he will be groomed, he has returned to his counter surfing antics, and has stolen a sock. And, he has just announced, in a single bark, that he is on the couch – when does the movie start? So perhaps bringing the “chill” home from vacation is too much to hope for. Will more vacations help? We are certainly eager to find out.

Finding Paradise
As small as Tasmania is, it was impossible for us to see everything on our list in the short about of time we were there. We spent five days exploring the northern and eastern side of the tiny Australian state. The rugged landscapes of Cradle Mountain, Freycinet, and Tasman Peninsula did not disappoint. Driving through Tasmania, you might even find Paradise. No really. On the way to Cradle Mountain from Sheffield, there is a town with two country houses in the shadow of Mount Roland. The name of that town is Paradise. It’s actually not too far from Promised Land.

Considering that our trip to Australia was for nearly three weeks, we were considered to be luggage superheros with a 21” rollaboard and a small tote bag each. This meant that it was pertinent to find accommodations with laundry facilities along the way. The evening we stayed in Tamar Valley, we had a cottage with a washer, but it was customary to not have a dryer and to dry everything on the line. We gave it a shot, and sure enough, in the morning we had a suitcase full of wet clothes. We didn’t have time to wait for them to dry – we had more countryside to explore. So we lined the back of the rental car with our wet clothes and took off to fuel up at the full service gas station. “Doing some touring?” our attendant inquired when he saw our underwear strewn about the car. Between drying our clothes on the line and not being able to pump our own gas, we really felt like we had stepped back in time.

Local Fare
Outside of Outback Steakhouse, how many restaurants can you think of that feature Australian cuisine? In general, we would find a bakery here and there that offered (of course) meat pies. While traveling through the tiny towns along our route, we found it challenging to find things open past 7:00 or 8:00 pm, so we learned to eat early or to go to bed without our dinner.

One morning, we stopped into a bakery to grab some sweet treats for breakfast. I ordered the mud cake. I don’t know if it is customary or an accident, but that thing was full of eggshells. Yum.

On our final day in Tasmania, we planned a visit to the Cadbury plant in Hobart. Our goal was to just visit the gift shop, but they only grant access to people who are taking the tour. So, for the bargain price of $25, we were able to save about $5 off of our purchases. We learned during the tour that recipes are different within local markets. A Cadbury bar that you try from England tastes different than one from Australia. We returned to the airport later that day thinking that we would grab some lunch there. At the time we were passing through, the only food available was from a vending machine. Luckily we had so much chocolate on hand – enough that it was a punishment by the time our hunger was satiated.  Even though I will still take an Australian Cadbury over a British one any day.

Local Brew
The Tamar Valley is the area’s local wine region, sprinkled with wineries along the countryside, reminiscent of Russian River in California, but on a much smaller scale. We dedicated a day of exploration, with the privilege of enjoying a fine lunch at the Roseavers winery. It was “privilege”, I guess, because we walked into an empty restaurant during business hours, and the hostess said she would need to check with a manager to see if there was anything available. Luckily we were deemed servable, when we were led to a table shortly thereafter.

Before leaving Tamar Valley, we had a couple of stops to make. The first was a strawberry patch that also sold strawberry wine. The overly eager attendant poured us a sample of the wine, and then samples of pancake syrup that were so sweet it was too much for even my sweet tooth. Then he insisted we pick some berries from the field “for the experience”. Feeling obligated, we picked about ten berries between the two of us (which he didn’t charge us for) and bought a small bottle of strawberry wine.

Our final Tamar Valley stop was Pipers Brook winery, which makes a fabulous Pinot Noir (9th Island), which we can get back home, at least at the time of our trip. We learned at the winery that Australia imposes a 41% tax on wine, which means it’s cheaper for us to buy it back home. 9th Island had an excellent chardonnay, and I was assured that we should be able to find that somewhere back home, so we ended only buying one bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. We never did find that Chardonnay, and many years later we are hard pressed to find the Pinot Noir.

Tasmania has more than excellent wine. It is home to Australia’s oldest brewery, the Cascade Brewery. We had been enjoying their lager for a majority of our trip, and now we could go to the source. Since we didn’t have enough room in our luggage to bring a lot home, we picked up a homebrew kit from their gift shop so we could make our own batch upon our return.

Facing Your Devil
Growing up with Looney Tunes, who wouldn’t fantasize about meeting the crazy devil that comes from a mysterious land far away? If I had one goal for this trip, it was to see a Tasmanian devil. Upon arriving at Cradle Mountain on the very first afternoon, I did what I always do – head for the gift shop. Meanwhile, my husband is loitering outside because he just hates to shop that much. Just outside the gift shop, he comes face to face with his devil (a rare occurrence in broad daylight). Of course the encounter was brief, and I would have thought he was totally making it up if it didn’t have the picture to prove it. This made my obsession spin out of control (kind of like Taz, I guess). In the end, I gave in our last night on the island and paid for a Devils in the Dark tour. Sometimes facing your devil comes with a price, but with the devils facing the risk of extinction, I’m glad I had the opportunity.

Cafe Vlissighe

View from clock tower

We sought refuge from the freezing cold by ducking into the clock tower in the center of town, which provided excellent views of the town below.  The field trip of school children immediately behind us set the pace, as we are always looking for the perfect, tourist-free photo opportunity. 

On the Canal

Despite the freezing, damp cold, a trip to Bruges would not be complete without a canal tour.  What lucky ducks were we that we floated by these ducks that were shaking off the cold themselves. 

Do Galle (Bruges)

First by sea (or canal, anyway), then by land, our carriage driver directed us to a pub down a quiet alley.  It quickly lost its charm when one of the few beers on tap, (the one that I ordered) was not from Belgium, but Texas. 

Dinner in a hail storm

We built up quite an appetite after so much sight seeing, and settled in for the traditional mussels and beer on the square.  If you look carefully, you can see the hail pellets on our table. 

Threatening skies

We were only in Bruges for two nights, but we managed to find our own favorite local haunt.  We ended up at Cambrinus both nights, for a generous sampling of beer and Flemish stew.  When the skies threatened us, we knew we would find safe haven.  Not quite a robust as Cafe Delerium in Brussels, which holds the world record for the most beers available, Cambrinus boasts an impressive 400 varieties, which was certainly enough to keep a couple of beer snobs entertained. 

Vlissighe - the oldest pub in Bruges

Just a stumble from our hotel, Cafe Vlissinghe is the oldest pub in Bruges, dating back to 1515.  If you’re lucky enough to have been inside, and paid close attention while watching In Bruges, you will realize that you may have shared a seat with Colin Farrell.

Chocolate museum

You can only have so much beer before getting the munchies, so luckily the other epicurism that Belgium is famous for is chocolate.  The Chocolate Museum houses works of art that are good enough to eat.  Unfortunately, if you’re hungry, you will need to head to one of the many chocolate shops in town to satisfy your craving.

Bruges street

Despite the less than fairy tale condition, Bruges was definitely a dream.

We knew we would be challenged on our short three night visit to Moab to even scratch the rocky surface of what this natural playground has to offer.  There are endless opportunities for biking, rafting, four-wheeling and climbing.  Overwhelmed by the possibilities, we decided to stick with our most primitive mode of transportation – our own two feet – for a majority of our visit to the area parks.

The drive from Denver to Moab generally takes between 5-6 hours, and had we not spent so much time enjoying stops along the way, we might have not been as compressed to see the Moab sites as we were.  But after braving icy roads through Vail Pass, we were ready for a break in Palisade to sample some local wines, and primed ourselves for Utah’s expansive canyons by driving through the Colorado Monument National  Park.  All worthwhile stops, but our journey through Utah’s open range left us feeling like we would indeed be driving until the cows came home.  From the time we left Fruita, we were teased by exit signs of towns that didn’t really exist, as our gas gauge sank towards “E”, giving us the constant thrill of whether or not we would make it to the nearest gas station in Moab.  We made it….barely.

Lodging  in Moab ranges from basic camping to ultra-posh resorts.  Camping is generally rustic – many campgrounds along the river provide only pit toilets.  Even the campground in Arches National Park does not have showers.  Our previous camping expeditions have not been quite so primitive, so we opted for the cozy Castle Valley Inn.  This was a very good call, as the weather was unseasonably cold and rainy, and being the peak season, last minute reservations can be hard to come by.

After settling in for the evening and taking what felt like merely a quick nap, we set out early the next day to attempt to catch the sunrise at Arches.  Our lodging was about 30 minutes from the park, which we accounted for, but what we failed to consider was the length of time required to drive to the prime attractions once we arrived at the park.  We made it all the way to the Windows section before we decided that if we didn’t seize the sunrise, we would miss the opportunity.  Being the photographers’ paradise that it is, we followed the crowd and climbed to a spot that would provide the best lighting.  The day, however, was cloudy, and the sunrise subdued.

But the early birds still do get the worm, and we were among the first on the Devil’s Garden trail.  The primitive loop is comprised of 7.2 miles, including easy walks to Tunnel Arch, Pine Tree Arch and the famous Landscape Arch, which is the longest natural arch in the world.  Next, we followed the trail along the fin to the location of the fallen Wall Arch, which crumbled to the ground in August 2008.  This portion of the trail introduces you to what you are in for on the remainder of the hike, where some light climbing skills are required.  The signs warn of strenuous conditions, and this is by far the most challenging hike I’ve ever been on.  The trail alternates between desert sand and slick rock, and all of the practice at Panola or Stone Mountain in Atlanta will not prepare you for some of the steep, slippery rocks encountered along the way.  Those that choose to venture along the complete route are rewarded with access to many more arches, including the Double O Arch, and are led across a fin here, past desert blooms there.

After dragging ourselves to the parking lot nearly four hours later, we discovered the most beautiful aspect of our early journey.  We avoided the massive crowds!   By lunchtime on a Friday, the park was packed and people were waiting for a parking spot.  We were grateful for the many photo opportunities on the trail that were free of people.

Our evening activity was a sunset boat cruise with Canyonlands by Night.  Well, not exactly a sunset cruise, more like a late afternoon cruise.  Our options were to take the early ride and bring our cameras, or to take the true sunset cruise and leave our cameras behind, due to the boat operator’s policies.  This was a worthwhile excursion that provided a different view of the canyons, as our guide shared stories about the area.

Once the tour was complete and we quickly ate a dinner provided as part of our cruise package, we realized that the sun still needed to set.  If we hurried, we could make it back to Arches for a spectacular sunset.  Our visit occurred during an unusually cloudy weekend, which only made the experience more striking.  After spending the day literally from sunrise to sunset, we were ready to recharge for the adventures of day two.

On the second day, we were overwhelmed with indecision.  We were scheduled for a ranger led Fiery Furnace hike later in the day, and we knew that could lead to disaster if we overestimated our hiking abilities in the morning.  At the suggestion of our innkeepers, we decided to grab a picnic lunch and head to Dead Horse Point State Park.  The park adjoins Canyonlands National Park and provides vast vistas of the Colorado River cutting through the seemingly limitless canyon.  And, it’s the location of the final scene from Thelma & Louise, for you trivia buffs out there.

After lunch we were left with enough time to pick a quick attraction on our way to the Fiery Furnace.  We chose to stop at the viewpoint section for Delicate Arch, which offers a viewing area right off of the parking lot, as well as a short hike to enjoy views from another angle.  From our vantage we could see all of the people that appeared like a colony of ants from the distance. 

The capstone of our day was participating in a hike through the Fiery Furnace in Arches.  This area has no marked trails and is only accessible after obtaining the appropriate permit, or by participating in a guided hike.  For first timers, the guided hike is highly recommended to learn about minimizing environmental impact in the area, as well as how to get through the furnace.  The hike definitely stretches perspective and abilities, as hikers leap over crevices, squeeze their way through infant arches and between tight fins, and slide down slick rock.  Hikers are treated to views of arches viewable from only inside the furnace, natural pools and private gardens.  Good hiking shoes and water carried in a backpack are required.  On our hike, as in most hikes (I’m guessing) there are participants who are ill-equipped for the challenges of the hike.  A video to help understand the demands of the hike is available at the National Park Service’s website.  That said, we were prepared and eager for the aspects of this challenging experience.

Our final day was the hardest of all.  We had to drive back to Denver and knew that we would again encounter some snowy challenges along the way.  We had only until early afternoon to take in the last of Moab.  So many choices – we hadn’t even made it to Canyonlands yet, and there was so much to see there.  In the end, we decided to complete what we could of Arches.  After all, who knows if another arch may crumble to the ground before we can make it back.  In the early morning, we hiked to Delicate Arch.  Like our Devil’s Garden hike, our early start yielded access to the arch with few visitors and ample photo opportunities.   The hardest thing about the hike was deciding when to leave – we knew we had to be on our way.

With a short amount of time to spare before we absolutely had hit the road, we decided to squeeze in one final hike to the area just off of the Devil’s Garden campground.  This hike through the desert included Sand Dune Arch, Broken Arch and Skyline Arch, as well as one by the name of Tapestry Arch, which was not listed on our map.  While journeying through the desert in between stops, the rainy weather turned to sleet.  How many people can say that they have been caught in a sleet storm in the desert in May?  Luckily, it was surprisingly refreshing and brief.

We learned from our journey that sometimes there just is not enough time to explore all of the options available and you have to make some tough decisions.  We view this trip as a “Moab Sampler”, and know that we have just scratched the surface of all that the area has to offer.  Someday we will return and visit Canyonlands.  Someday we will raft through Westwater Canyon.  Someday we will bring our bikes along.  I hope that someday comes soon.

The portion of this famous stretch of highway is a mere 135 miles from Monterey to San Luis Obispo, but you will need to take plenty of time to explore the dramatic vistas and to carefully navigate the tight turns.  Bixby Bridge, thirteen miles south of Monterey, is northern gateway to the unspoiled beauty of the dramatic California coastline.  The bridge was completed in 1932, and opened up access to Big Sur from the north.  Prior to its completion, travelers had to endure 30 miles of treacherous travel.  Now the precarious travel begins beyond the bridge, as the journey harshly bends along a coastal cliff line.

So much adrenaline can really build an appetite.  A necessary stop to refuel is Nepenthe Restaurant, which promises one of the most spectacular views you may enjoy, ever.   I can’t remember what we even ordered, we were so distracted by the view.  Pricey, of course, but this is par for the course in along this stretch of the Cabrillo Highway.

Accommodations along the central portion of the Cabrillo Highway can be quite expensive, and are concentrated near Big Sur and Lucia, which are separated by 25 twisty and treacherous miles.  Big Sur accommodations range from the moderate Big Sur Lodge and Deetjens Big Sur Inn to the ultra luxurious Ventana Inn or Post Ranch Inn.  Lucia accommodations are more moderate, and some popular choices include Lucia Lodge and Gorda Springs Resort.  Even tent campsites in this area can cost up to $50 a night (and that doesn’t even include a tent!)  Although, the Big Sur Campground and Cabins does provide a “tent cabin”, complete with a queen bed and linens for $98 in the high season.

Longing for something in between camping and ultra-posh, we spent two nights in a yurt at Treebones Resort.  There we enjoyed the comfort of a cozy bed, plenty of blankets and a personal sink, with restrooms a short walk away.  A waffle breakfast is included in the lodge each morning, so there is no need to struggle with an early morning campfire to boil water for your coffee.  As a matter of fact, you can leave all of your cooking to the experts at the lodge, which offers deli lunches and fine dining in the evening. 

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is home to McWay Falls.  These falls may only be enjoyed from a distance, but this means that you will have the opportunity to take a postcard perfect photo without anyone getting in the way.  This park also offers hiking trails and campsites.

It panged me to learn that Limekiln State Park was damaged in the Chalk Fire in September and October of 2009 and is currently closed.  Our visit occurred a year and a half before the fire, so we were able to enjoy a short hike beneath the tranquil redwoods to the limekilns that were once used to “cook” limestone into building materials, as well as to visit a charming waterfall.

Seven miles north of San Simeon is Piedras Blancas, a rookery for elephant seals.  Our visit in late April actually occurred during the peak season to see these mammals ashore.  They spend most of their time in the ocean, but congregate twice a year on the beach.  This is a perfect spot to observe the spectacle.  And for us, that meant a beach full of seals sunning themselves during their afternoon nap.

Moonstone Beach is one of the most unique beaches that I have visited, and is indeed one of my favorites.  Who knew that a rocky beach would be such a work of art?  Here, there is no sand to sink your toes into.  The shoreline consists of smooth, multicolored rocks and moonstones.  Nearby Cambria provides a break from driving with a picturesque main street filled with galleries and specialty shops, where you can pick up your own moonstone gem of a souvenir.

The complete southbound journey continues through San Luis Obispo through Los Angeles and down to Orange County.  We were anxious to get to the next segment of our trip – a detour through Paso Robles wine country – so this is where our Carbillo Highway journey ends for now.

Travel Hound

Spring’s here and it’s time for a road trip! Whether it’s hiking to vast vistas or chasing waterfalls, it seems like there are endless exploration possibilities in Western North Carolina. Below are some highlights to help your own furry friend temporarily transform into a Carolina Dog.

Highlands Botanical Garden – This attraction is free and open year round, and you and your pup can stroll the lush trails together.  Additionally, the Nature Center is located directly across the road from the Sunset Rock trail, a .6 mile one way trip that provides an overlook of Highlands.

Highlands Botanical Garden

Bridal Veil Falls – Just to confuse you, there are two Bridal Veil Falls in North Carolina.  One is near Brevard, and is accessible via a five mile round trip hike.  The one that we visited was off of Highway 64, between Highlands and Franklin.  A turn off along the road allows you to drive under the falls.  Our furry friend was not impressed by the close proximity to the falls.  It’s way too early in the journey for it to be bath time.

Bridal Veil Falls

Standing Indian – There are a couple of different options to access the summit of this mountain, which is the highest point of the Appalachian Trail south of the Smokies.  We opted for the shorter, yet more strenuous, trail from Deep Gap.  The effort was worth it, as the vista point provided miles of panoramic views.

Standing Indian Summit

White Water Falls – The highest falls east of the Rockies are one of the most photo friendly in the area.  It is near the North and South Carolina borders, off of NC 281.  The viewing platform is an easy paved walk (approx ½ mile).  Unfortunately, you won’t be able to get very close.  It is worth a visit, nonetheless.  

White Water Falls

Courthouse Falls – There was so much anticipation traveling to these falls.  Would we ever find it?  Off of NC 215 in Transylvania County, one must take a forest service road for approximately three miles.  The markers for the trail are difficult to spot, so if you are lucky, there will be a car or two parked near the trailhead to help show you the way.  Well worth the journey, you can climb down to the falls, and if properly equipped, cool off in the pool below.

Courthouse Falls

Glen Falls – just south of Highlands is this gem of a waterfall hike, where you get three falls for the price of one.  As the trail descends, each vista gets better and better as each section of the falls is revealed.  You can get very close to these falls, so be sure to use plenty of caution.  The falls are located three miles south of Highlands on NC 106.

Glen Falls

Such a short drive from Atlanta, the hardest aspect of the trip will be tearing yourself away to make the journey back.  And these highlights only scratch the surface of all the exploration that is available in such a small section of the state.

St. Thomas

Our journey began on a ferry from St. Thomas, after a night of Bushwackers the size of our heads.

Norman Island Pier

Norman Island is the uninhabited island that inspired Treasure Island.  This is a great stop to rest your sea legs and hike across the island.  Even though there are no residents, the Pirates Bight bar is on the shore to welcome sailors, hikers or snorkelers.  And don’t confuse uninhabited for quiet.  The nearby Willy-T bar, which is floating off the shore, even had Mom hanging from the rafters.

Peter Island

Peter Island is owned by Amway Corporation and is home to a single resort.   While anyone can anchor down and come ashore for some exploration, you must be a guest of the resort in order to enjoy a beach chair.  Buying a drink at the bar does not count, so be prepared to lie in the sand while enjoying your Pain Killer. 

The Baths at Virgin Gorda

Virgin Gorda is best known for The Baths, granite boulders forming caves with pools of sea water.  A short hike through the brush leads to Mad Dog Bar for some refreshing Bushwackers.  The rest of the island can be explored by a tour bus, which delivered us to the side of the island that is a temporary home to guests escaping their version of the real world.

Road Town

We had a very brief stop in Road Town, Tortola, where most of us shopped for souvenirs while one of our passengers visited a local doctor.   Even the best laid plans sometimes take a turn.

Sandy Spit

Imagine a classic desert island.  Now open your eyes, and it is in front of you.  This is Sandy Spit, complete with a perimeter of sand surrounding an epicenter of tropical vegetation.  You can leave me here, thank you very much.

Jost Van Dyke

Jost Van Dyke is a laid back island with a main street of beachfront bars.   The traditional way to arrive on the island is to have your sister push you off of the dinghy, so you can swim to the shore and saunter up to the Soggy Dollar Bar to buy a drink with your soggy dollars.  Down the road is Ivan’s Stress Free Bar, where honesty is the best policy.  You can mix your own concoction and leave the posted amount in a jar on the bar.  But the real nightlife occurs at Foxy’s, which is a short jaunt down the road.  If you want to be a part of the party, be sure to pack a life vest, because this place is only accessible by boat.

Cane Garden Bay

Cane Garden Bay is a lively beachfront area on the Northern side of Tortola.  A short walk from the main beach is Callwood Rum Distillery, where you can sample a variety of local rums.  This was our final overnight stop, so I seized the moment and spent that night sleeping outside under the stars.  

Whether we were exploring, swimming off the boat, enjoying a delicious dinner at sunset or sailing to our next destination, our hosts were accommodating and fun.  They were also extremely patient with repeating the daily agenda – even on a small boat, our group was like herding cats.  While they run a different charter now, I’m sure the experience is as wonderful as ours was.  Their website is http://www.sailfreeingwe.com/.

Getting to Fraser Island isn’t the easiest thing in the world, and once you’re there, getting around is even more challenging. A ferry leaves from the mainland at Hervey Bay several times a day, and once you are on the island, the only way to drive around the sand track roads is with a 4WD vehicle. Budget conscious travelers may find that staying at one of the two resorts proves to be more economical than renting a 4WD for the duration of their stay.

We took a small plane to Hervey Bay from Brisbane and arrived too late to catch the last ferry to Fraser Island.  So we stayed in a hotel near the ferry docks.  The morning of our departure, we embraced the opportunity to try some local fare by going to a nearby takeaway. What could be more authentic than the Eurong Cowboy breakfast, which was described as cheese toast topped with spaghetti? Yum, spaghetti for breakfast. Digging into my local treat, I quickly realized that the spaghetti came from a can. I guess that’s why you don’t see a lot of restaurants in the U.S. featuring “authentic Australian cuisine.”

There are many lodging options on Fraser Island if you are interested in roughing it with the dingoes. Additionally, there is a hostel on the beach side of the island, as well as many rental properties. These are great options if you have access to a 4WD vehicle. Additionally, there are two resorts on the island, Kingfisher Bay  and Eurong Beach Resort.

Because of the variety of amenities, tours and the proximity to the ferry dock, we didn’t mind spending a little extra at Kingfisher Bay. This eco resort was designed to integrate with the natural surroundings and to educate guests about the local ecosystem through clinics, guided walks and tours. Our first day we spent enjoying the resort – the pool, the restaurants, and the nature walks. It was December, and as we sat poolside, feasting on a fresh seafood buffet, we listened to carolers singing Winter Wonderland amidst the palm trees and balmy breeze.

Fraser Island is home to some of the last remaining population of pure dingoes. Domesticated dogs are not allowed to be brought onto Fraser Island to preserve the purity of the local dingoes. We were told that dingoes generally take little interest in people, so it was rare to have an encounter with one. Additionally, it is illegal for people to engage dingoes in human interaction, by attracting or feeding them. We were anxious to see a dingo in the wild, however the experience that we got was more than we bargained for. We spent one evening near dusk walking on the beach near the resort. Enamored with the scenery and sunset, we wandered pretty far from any other humans. On the way back, no other people in sight, we had our dingo encounter. And, contrary to the promise that they would show no interest in people, this dingo wanted to meet us personally. This was one of those times where you’re not quite sure how you are going to react until you’re living the situation. My first instinct was to run, but my husband reminded me that would guarantee an attack. The dingo approached us as I hid behind my husband, who luckily kept it together. He folded his arms and stared down the adolescent dingo that crouched into puppy play stance as I tried to keep my hands steady enough to snap a photo. (I did take a picture, but unfortunately was not successful at keeping things steady). The dingo let out a wild bark, much like our dog at home would do when he wasn’t getting the reaction he expected when he wanted to play. A few moments later he became bored and continued on his way.

Our second day on the island, we took a Kingfisher Bay 4WD tour of some of the island’s most popular sights. Our “tour bus” was a modified commercial truck with a tour bus interior. Our tour guide blasted the catchy country tune We’re All Gonna Die Someday as the roller coaster ride over the hilly sand tracks intensified.

The tour included Central Station, which is essentially a central campground facility. We hiked along Wanggoolba Creek, and saw some interesting vegetation along the way. Strangler figs, I suppose, could be likened to kudzu that is found in Georgia because of its behavior of growing up trees and strangling them.

The next stop on the tour was Lake McKenzie, which was the highlight of our visit. This freshwater lake is comprised of rainwater, and the beauty of the lake was all that the pictures promised. The most disappointing thing was the small amount of time we were able to spend there.

On our final day on Fraser Island, we rented our own 4WD so we could explore the major highlights that were on the other side of the island. We knew from the day before the conditions of the roads. They were one lane 4WD tracks in the sand, which made you feel that you had forgotten all of your driving skills and you were in a nightmare version of driver’s ed.

We stopped at Lake Wabby, a small freshwater lake that was being taken over by a massive sand dune. The walk from the car to the lake was about 20 minutes through the forest. When we finally arrived at the lake, we truly felt like we were in the desert. The green lake beckoned us to cool off and watch other visitors sand board into the lake while the fish nipped our toes.

After Lake Wabby, we headed for 75 Mile Beach where we could drive to see the rest of the sites. At low tide, the beach serves as the main highway (and runway) for the island. We traveled to Cathedral Beach and worked our way down to see The Pinnacles (sculptured colored sands), Maheno Shipwreck (washed ashore in 1935), and Eli Creek. The creek had a rapid current, so you could float down on your belly as if you were on a water slide.  That is, when you weren’t getting stuck in the shallow areas. We returned via Lake McKenzie with a little bit of time to catch our ferry.

Like all of our destinations on that whirlwind journey down under, we only wished we could spend more time. And several years later in the midst of another holiday season, I’m reminiscing about that balmy, white, sandy island.  Ah, a winter wonderland, indeed.